THE SOUTH AEGEAN COAST
A visit to Efes (Ephesus), once the commercial center of the ancient
world, is one of the highlights of any visit to Turkey. The city whose
wealth and patronage supported its splendid architectural program was
dedicated to the Goddess Artemis. Her enormous temple, rebuilt several
times, dates in its latest form to the third century B.C. and was
considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The ruins also
include the theater, gymnasium, baths, agora as well as the Library of
Celsus.
The nearby town of Selcuk is dominated by a Byzantine citadel which
stands close to the basilica of St. John, built in the fifth century, on the
site of the Apostle's tomb. The 14th century Isa Bey Mosque, next to the
basilica is accessed through its typical Seljuk portal. The Archaeological
Museum houses an impressive collection of statues and other finds
recovered during the excavations of Ephesus. The Ephesus International
Festival is held annually in May.
It is recorded that St. John brought the Virgin Mary to Ephesus after the
death of Christ and that she spent her last days in a small house
(Meryemana Evi) built for her on Bulbuldagi (Mt. Nightingale). Now a
popular place of pilgrimage for Christians and Muslims, the house has
received the official sanction of the Vatican, and Christians observe a
commemoration ceremony every year on August 15th.
35 km east of Aydin lies Sultanhisar, host to an Art and Culture Festival
every spring. Nearby, in the quiet of the olive trees, are the ruins of
ancient Nysa, famous in the second century A.D. as an educational center.
The exquisite Menderes River valley, known in the West as the Meander,
has been the cradle of many civilizations. Set amidst pine, olive and
oleander trees, the magnificent Camici (Bafa) Lake is a lovely, peaceful
place to stay. Tourists can choose between guest houses or camp sites. To
the east of the lake rise the five peaks of the Besparmak Mountains. The
ruins of the ancient city of Heraklia lie close to the lake while the
remains of Alinda are found on the eastern slopes of the Besparmak
Mountains. The valley has witnessed the rise and fall of several great
cities, notably Priene, Miletos, Didyma, Aphrodisias, and Hierapolis.
Gullubahce (Priene) was one of the most active ports of the lonian
Federation. The gridlike system of streets introduced in the fourth century
B.C. by Hippodamos of Miletos is a superb and early example of town
planning.
Milet (Miletos), like Priene, was a great lonian port and the birthplace of
several philosophers and sages. The theater itself justifies a visit. Be sure
to see the well preserved ruins of the Faustina baths and the
archaeological museum.
Although the history of Geyre (Aphrodisias) stretches back in time, the
city rose to prominence in the first century B.C. Some of the richest
treasures of ancient times were uncovered in the excavations of this city
dedicated to Aphrodite, goddess of love and fertility. The public buildings
are handsomely adorned with marble that was carved with astonishing
skill, producing remarkable temples, monuments, a theater, baths and a
magnificent stadium. The reputation of the city's craftsmen
for the exquisite finesse of their statuary and marble sculpting spread in
the civilized world, and Aphrodisias became the center of the greatest
sculpting school of antiquity. Many of the marvellous works of an are now
housed in the local museum. The theater and bouleuterion are among the
city's best preserved ruins.
The hot springs have been used since Roman times for their therapeutic
powers. Both the thermal center with its motels and thermal pools and the
ruins of the ancient city of Hierapolis are situated on the plateau.
Another thermal center northwest of Pamukkale, Karahayit is famed for
its water's high iron content. Photographs taken here reflect the red tones
of the water.
Not far from town you can swim in absolutely dear, tideless warm seas.
Underwater divers, especially will want to explore the numerous reefs,
caves and majestic rock formations. The waters offer up multicolored
sponges of all shapes and sizes, octopus and an immense variety of other
aquatic life.
The reputation of Bodrum's boatyards dates back to ancient times and
today the craftsmen still build the traditional yachts: the tirhandil with a
pointed bow and stern and the gulette with a broad beam and rounded
stern. The latter, especially takes visitors on excursions and pleasure
trips and is used in the annual October Cup Race.
The yearly throngs of visitors have encouraged small entrepreneurs who
have made shopping in Bodrum a delight. Leather goods of all kinds, natural
sponges and the local blue glass beads are among the bargains to be found
in the friendly little shops along the narrow white walled streets.
Charming boutiques offer kilims, carpets, sandals and embroideries as
well as original fashions in soft cotton.
Bodrum has gained the reputation as the center of the Turkish art
community with its lively, friendly and Bohemian atmosphere and many
small galleries. This community has encouraged an informal day-time life
style and a nighttime of excitement. The evenings in Bodrum are for sitting
idly in one of the many restaurants dining on fresh seafood and other
Aegean specialties. Afterwards night clubs (some with cabaret) and
superb discos in Europe keep you going until dawn.
The beautiful Bodrum peninsula suits holiday makers interested in a
subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Enchanting villages with guest houses
and small hotels on quiet bays dot the peninsula. On the southern coast,
Bardakci, Gumbet, Bitez, Ortakent Yalisi, Karaincir, Bagla and Akyarlar
have fine sandy beaches. Campers and wind surfers enjoy Gumbet and at
Bitez colorful sail boards weave skillfully among the masts of yachts in
the bay. On shore you can enjoy quiet walks through the orange and
tangerine grove bordering the beach.
Ortakent has one of the longest stretches of sandy beach in the area and
offers an ideal place for relaxing in solitude. One of the most beautiful
beaches on the Bodrum peninsula, Karaincir, is ideal for lively active days
by the sea and relaxed, leisurely evenings with local villagers. Finally,
Akyarlar enjoys a well deserved reputation for the fine, powdery sand of
its beach.
Turgutreis, Gumusluk and Yalikavak, all with excellent beaches, ideal for
swimming, sunbathing and water sports, lie on the western side of the
peninsula. In Turgutreis, the birthplace of a great Turkish admiral of the
same name, you will find a monument honoring him. In the ancient port of
Myndos, Gumusluk you can easily make many friends with the hospitable
and out-going local population. In Yalikavak white-washed houses with
cascading bougainvillaea line narrow streets. Small cafes and the
occasional windmill create a picturesque setting.
See the north coast of the peninsula - Torba, Turkbuku, Golkoy and
Gundogan -- by road or, even better, hire a boat and crew to explore the
quiet coves, citrus groves and wooded islands. Little windmills which
still provide the energy to grind grain crown hills covered with olive tress.
Torba, a modern village with a nice marina and holiday villages is located
eight km north of Bodrum. Golkoy and Turkbuku are small and simple fishing
villages with a handful of taverns overlooking a lovely bay.
After a boat trip to Karaada, half an hour from Bodrum, you can bathe in
the grotto where the warm mineral waters flowing out of the rocks are
believed to beautify the complexion.
The translucent and deep waters of the Gulf of Gokova, on the southern
shore of the Bodrum peninsula vary from the darkest blue to the palest
turquoise, and the coastline is thickly wooded with every hue of green. In
the evening, the sea reflects the mountains silhouetted against the
setting sun, while at night it shimmers with phosphorescence. You can
take a yacht tour or hire a boat from Bodrum for a two, three or seven day
tour of the gulf.
The Gulf of Gulluk and harbor of the same name lie north of the Bodrum
peninsula on the Aegean. The mythological Dolphin Boy is said to have been
born a little farther to the north at Kiyikislacik (lassos). South of Gulluk,
Varvil, ancient Bargilya, sits at the end of a deep narrow inlet surrounded
by olive covered hillsides.
Inland from Gulluk is Milas, ancient Mylasa, known for its beautiful
carpets -- a century old tradition which continues to the present day. The
weavers rarely mind a visitor watching them at work. Plenty of old
Turkish houses with carved timbers and latticed windows provide
examples of the vernacular architectural style. Gumuskesen, a monumental
tomb thought to be a small copy of the famous Halicarnassus Mausoleum,
stands in the west of the city.
The ancients built Labranda, a sanctuary
dedicated to Zeus high in the mountains. Today, tourists have rediscovered
this mountain retreat and escape to its exhilarating air and breathtaking
scenery.
There are many good buys in Marmaris's
boutiques, colorful bazaars and markets where you can find excellent
leather and suede goods, copper and brass wares, jewelery and objects
carved of onyx. Turkish carpets, textiles and embroideries make good
handcrafted souvenirs and the locally produced pine-scented honey called
cam bali is super.
Ancient Marmaris, Physkos, was an important stage on
the Anatolia-Rhodes-Egypt trade route. In the 16th century, Suleyman the
Magnificent had a citadel built on a hill; its remains can still be seen
today.
Swimmers should not miss Ataturk Park, to the east of Marmaris,
where a shallow beach, extending to the bay leads into safe waters. The
clear sea is warm enough for swimming from early May until late
September.
Marmaris also has horseback riding and tennis centers for the
sports enthusiast. This is one of the few places in the world where you can
delight in the heady aroma of the frankincense tree.
Near Marmaris, at
Golenye Icmeleri, the hazy mountains of the interior slope down to sandy
beaches. Under blue skies, the clear sea is ideal for all types of water
sports. Many find this area so irresistible that they stay longer than
originally planned. As you drive down from the high mountains into the
village of Turunc, the scene opens out onto the spectacular blue waters
beyond the natural harbor. The village itself is small and scattered around
the bay; most of the restaurants border the beach. A few bars and
restaurants farther back from the water's edge offer fresh fish and superb
views into the blue distance.
Kumlubuk, a turquoise paradise, lies on the
southern side of the bay -- on the north side, above the water stands the
ancient Rhodian city of Amos. Loryma, at the tip of the Bozburun
Peninsula, where the ruins of the ancient harbor and castle remain, can
only be reached by boat. Natural quiet bays and scattered islands
punctuate the northern shore of the peninsula, ideal for those who want to
get away from it all.
Sedir Island, in the Gulf of Gokova, is the ancient Cedrai. Its old city
walls, theater and temples can be visited by driving from Marmaris north
to Gelibolu Bay and then crossing by boat. This voyage also offers an
unforgettable panoramic view of the mountain scenery across the bay.
At the head of the gulf is the village of Gokova whose houses cascade
down the mountainside. Restaurants built over bubbling, fresh water
streams that fall from the highlands create an unforgettable setting. The
towering pines and cooling breezes of Gokova Park are often a welcome
respite from the hot sun.
The Datca Peninsula provides a natural boundary between the Aegean Sea,
the Gulf of Gokova, to the north and the Mediterranean Sea, the Gulf of
Hisaronu, to the south. Along all the 75 km from Marmaris to Datca, the
road winds among trees and hills permitting lovely views over the
expanse of blue. Campers have many perfect settings to choose from; the
less adventurous can stay in one of the many comfortable holiday villages.
In Datca white washed buildings hung with bougainvillaea decorate the
town. The marina is on the northern bay; swimmers prefer the southern
bay Around the marina bars, cafes and a wide selection of shops keep the
tourists interested. Some shops remain open well into the evening.
Relaxing over a pre-dinner drink and then a delicious meal in a welcoming
restaurant is a popular way to spend the evening hours. Of course the local
eateries offer both fresh fish and classical Turkish cuisine. With any
remaining energy, take a stroll and find a disco to your liking so that one
day continues on into the next.
As you travel out of Datca, either by road or by boat, you will find unspoilt
bays and golden sandy beaches. Kargi is one of the most popular.
At the end of the peninsula (38 km from Datca) stands the ancient Carian
city of Knidos, described by Strabo as "a city that was built for the most
beautiful of goddesses, Aphrodite, on the most beautiful of peninsulas."
Famous as a center of an and culture in the fourth century B.C., the city
had two harbors: one on the Aegean and the other on the Mediterranean. The
remains of a circular temple dedicated to the goddess of love overlook the
two harbors; the arcaded way was built of white marble heart-shaped
columns. The legendary Aphrodite of Praxiteles statue, one of the most
beautiful sculptures of antiquity, once graced this temple.
The town of Koycegiz, lies at the norther end of a lake of the same name
and is joined to the Mediterranean by a natural channel. This unique
environment is being preserved as a nature and wildlife sanctuary. A road
shaded with aromatic frankincense trees leads to the tiny village of
At Ekincik, a delightful yacht mooring, you can enjoy the breathtaking
beauty of this area. Only a half hour's drive from Dalaman Airport,
Sarigerme has wonderful sandy beaches and a pleasant holiday village
discreetly situated amid a pine forest.
Swimmers head for the popular Calis Beach, four km west of town, or to
Sovalye Island, opposite the harbor, which blazes with flower blossoms
in the spring.
About 65 km from Fethiye, to the southeast, near Kinik, are the ruins of
Xanthos, an important Lycian capital in a splendid natural setting.
Letoon, nearby, was formerly an important religious cult center where
three temples dedicated to Leto, Artemis and Apollo stood in ancient times.
AYDIN
The province's capital, also called Aydin, enjoys a widespread reputation
for its fine figs. Known as Tralleis in ancient times, it was at the center
of a celebrated sculpture school. The remains seen today date from the
second century AD. After 1186, the town came under Seljuk rule, and the
local museum displays artifacts from the different periods of its history.
Back along the coast, Kusadasi, or Bird Island, is a lovely port built along
the shores of a glittering bay. The terraced town overlooks the most
beautiful inlet of the Aegean and seems to have been created purely for
the delight of the holiday maker. A large modern marina facilitates life
for visiting yachters.
Although Didim (Didyma) can only boast of a single monument, it is
nevertheless a marvellous site. The Temple of Apollo here was one of
antiquity's most sacred places. Many times looted and burned, the
sanctuary still impresses with its elegant beauty. A portico of double
colonnades surround the colossal temple. Not far from the archaeological
site, the beautiful beach of Altinkum tempts with its many guest houses.
DENIZLI
Nestled against high mountains near the Buyuk Menderes (Meander) River is
Denizli. Surrounded by the natural beauty of a verdant valley, the area is
also rich in culture and history. The Luvians were the first inhabitants,
followed centuries later by the Hittites. Over the centuries the fertile
plain nourished other civilizations: the Phrygians, Lydians, Persians,
Macedonians, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, and the Ottomans.
Modern Denizli is a city of wide streets, parks and hotels. The Ataturk
Ethnographical museum, in the city center displays folk an and ethnic
artifacts. While shopping in the Kaleici Carsisi, look for souvenirs of
copper, jewelery, towels and silk blouses. You can choose among Camlik,
Incilipinar or Gokpinar Parks for a rest, picnic, or a walk through the forest
in the shade of pine trees. The fresh water springs and thermal baths
attract many visitors.
A magical and spectacular natural site, unique in the world, Pamukkale
(Hierapolis) is a fairyland of dazzling white, petrified castles. Thermal
spring waters laden with calcareous salts running off the plateau's edge
have created this fantastic formation of stalactites, cataracts and basins.
MUGLA
The province of Mugla's riches include the famous holiday cities of
Bodrum, Marmaris, Datca, Koycegiz and Fethiye. Beautiful resorts,
comfortable hotels and motels, cozy guest houses, impressive ruins of
past civilizations and magnificent landscapes offer holiday makers plenty
of choice. Mugla, the province's capital, lies inland and is known for its
traditional vernacular architecture.
An impressive medieval castle built by the Knights of Rhodes guards the
entrance to the Bodrum's dazzling blue bay in which the Aegean and the
Mediterranean Seas meet. The town's charm is well known attracting a
diverse population of vacationers who stroll along its long palm-lined
waterfront; elegant yachts crowd the marina.
Bodrum, known in ancient times as Halicarnassus, was the birthplace of
Heredotus and the site of King Mausolus's Tomb (fourth century B.C.), one
of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The medieval castle of St.
Peter in the harbor is a fine example of 15th century crusader architecture
and has been converted in to the Museum of Underwater Archeology, with
remains daang back as the Bronze Age. The stunning panoramic view from
Goktepe, nearby, is much photographed by those visiting the second
century theater there.
Situated on a bay, backed by rugged pine clad mountains,
Marmaris is one of the most attractive maritime parklands, ideal for
water sports and sailing. It makes an excellent starting point for lhe "Blue
Voyage" tour of the Aegean coastline. In May, the Marmaris Yacht Charter
Show provides the opponunity to meet the yachts' captains and their
crews. With plenty of provisions aboard, you set sail in the craft of your
choice and languidly explore the spectacular beauty of southern Turkey.
In Marmaris, sample some typical Turkish cuisine in one of the marina
restaurants and drink raki, anisette, the traditional Turkish way, over ice
and diluted with water. Later, stroll along the brightly lit and palm-lined
promenade and indulge yourself at one of the ice cream vendors. Energetic
entertainment at a lively bar or dancing until dawn at a sophisticated
disco can end a perfect day.
Dalyan on the inland waterway. The maze of channels is easily explored by
boat as you immerse yourself in this tranquil dream world. The
restaurants which line the waterways specialize in delicious meals of
fresh fish. High on the cliff face, at a bend in the river above the
fascinating ancient harbor city of 
Caunos, magnificent tombs were carved
into the rock. The Dalyan Delta, with a long, golden sandy beach at its
mouth, is a nature conservation area and a refuge for sea turtles
(Caretta Caretta) and blue crabs.
The road to Fethiye winds up and down hills through a heavily forested
region that offers occasional glimpses of the sea and an islet or two
basking in total seclusion. The 
Gulf of Gocek and its friendly marina is one
of the Mediterranean's best sailing spots. Dotted with islands and indented
with many coves, its land and seascapes are irresistible. The ruins of
Arymaxa, an ancient city at the southern tip of the gulf, lie at the edge of
the azure waters. Opposite, on Tersane Island, stand Byzantine ruins
including those of the ancient shipyards.
The popular resort, Fethiye, 135 km southeast of Marmaris, boasts an
important marina at the head of a beautiful bay strewn with islands. A
hill crowned by the ruins of the crusader fortress built by the Knights of
Rhodes overlooks the little port. Above the town, called Telmessos in
anaquity, numerous Lycian rock tombs, reproducing the facades of ancient
buildings, were cut into the cliff face. The Tomb of Amyntas, which
probably dates from the fourth century B.C. is the most remarkable.
The road to Belcegiz Bay takes you through the mountains where cozy
guest houses cater to those seeking mountain scenery. Explore the Bay and
the beautiful Blue Lagoon, OIu Deniz, where the calm, crystal clear water
is ideal for swimming and other water sports. The Blue Lagoon is one of the
best places in the world to do absolutely nothing except soak up the sun
amid stunning natural surroundings. For those who prefer camping,
Belcegiz beach is recommended. Intoxicating scenery surrounds Kidirak's
beach and shady park. On Gemiler Island, Byzantine ruins lie tucked among
the pines. South of Kidirak beach, Koturumsu Bay is reachable only by boat.
Beyond the idyllic beach, a forest, waterfalls and a valley filled with
hundreds of varieties of butterflies await the explorer. High in the
mountains above Fethiye, a rushing torrents cuts a narrow gorge through
the mountains, creating Saklikent (Hidden City). A cool refuge on hot
summer days, Saklikent is a favorite picnic spot, with nustic restaurants
serving delectable fresh trout.
